Solo Adventures, So Low in Patagonia


Heading Way South of the Border
Marily MacDonald
Villaricca: she is one hot, bubbly, loud and agitated volcano. Climbing up the radical face of ice and rock with an ice pick and crampons was a thrill in and of itself, let alone the interior view of an active volcano. The air became smoky and gaseous as red-hot chunks of lava burst from the earth. Due to the pull of the full moon she was more volatile then usual; you could say it was her time of the month. Every time the magma would spit out I'd ponder where to go if she really got mad. It was tough leaving the lakes district, with its volcanic landscape, countless lakes and ominous Andean peaks looming above. I truly appreciated Mother Nature's creativity.

It is one big Steppe into the lower regions of Chile and Argentina. The two-day bus ride down a bumpy , unpaved, desolate road leading me to the lower ends of the earth was worth every nauseating second. With its copious amount of outdoor pursuits, Patagonia is gaining popularity, especially as the accessibility improves. Arriving in El Chalten was a huge relief. Though a young (25 yrs old), unorganized, unpaved township it is quickly becoming base camp for many climbing enthusiasts, with Mt. Fitz Roy as the endeavor of choice. With its dramatic sloping faces that burst out of milky blue waters, the views were worth the mere seven-hour hike! I can see why some refer to it as "PataGucci;" it really is the designer section of Mother Nature's closet!

However, the amazing recreational opportunities do not overshadow the equally impressive glacial activity that studs the area. Puerto Moreno glacier is one of the most active in the area, moving almost a meter a day. The skyscraper-sized bits of ice that break off regularly are a sight to hear; the booming sound of ice crashing into the water is shattering. Waiting and watching for the ice to "calve" quickly consumed four hours of a day. After each crash gigantic waves push the chunks of ice out into the middle of the lake, creating a nautical navigator's nightmare. The size and power of the glacier Puerto Moreno is epic. Mother Nature sure outdoes herself down here.

Having done all this on my own, I am grateful to share my stories with you and the community. Since I have now been traveling alone for a month (Lisa had prior commitments, but we will reconvene in Hong Kong) I have had to step even farther out of my comfort zone. Having become more observant and aware, I have taken all this in with a new independent view. Though I feel as if I have lost my voice, (Lisa was the one fluent in Spanish!) I have somehow managed with the frequent use of "Spanglish" to survive all these adventures. I hope the luck continues in Buenos Aires where I may have to give the Tango a go!