When in Peru, do as they do! (Except the whole BYO TP!)
Sitting on a crowded, loud, dirty combi bus zooming through the cobblestone streets of Lima, I find myself admiring the business tenacity of the small boy juggling in the middle of an intersection. Similarly, the solemn girl in brightly colored native attire, holding a baby lamb and charging a sole to take a picture is also quite the entrepreneur. Yes, Peru is poor and run down, but it is still very much alive. The third world poverty is startling, but the people are jolly and content, each actively trying the make a living. The pride the Peruvians display in their culture and traditions is astounding. Though the houses are old and run down, children still laugh and play in the yards and the walks are swept and tidy. The mothers may be doing the wash by hand and the fathers are still working behind an ox and plow, yet they are happy living a simple non-materialistic life. The poverty may seem extreme but everyone seems to be fed and progress is seen everywhere.
Our first stop in Lima was essential because we stayed with a local girl and her family. She introduced us to the food, culture and lifestyle of Peru giving us a jump-start in our immersion. She also taught us how to catch one of the chaotic buses with horns that never cease to stop, as well as how to deter the finagling street vendors. Her family is very close and not unlike most families in South America the children live at home until marriage. Meeting Sophia really helped us get a more authentic introduction to Peru, we even tried the guinea pig.
After the hustle and bustle of the city we were drawn to the majestic mountains of the Andes. Our trek up to Machupicchu was awe inspiring. No matter what your beliefs are, you'll feel some sort of spirituality permeating throughout the mountains. The lush cloud forests that climb out of the river valley are mystical and overpowering. We made our journey up the steep steps at four AM to beat the crowds and see the sun rise over the ruins. As dawn broke we reached the summit and the fog and rain finally stopped. Our anticipation was alleviated as the Inca village of Machupicchu presented itself. It is in the running for one of the new seven wonders of the world and it fully deserves the recognition!
The mystery behind the Incan civilization's disappearance, the Spanish Inquisition and all the folklore surrounding Peruvian culture make for some very interesting museums and archaeological sites. We are practically ruined by all the sites but incidentally we are becoming Incan history buffs. We are learning of all the subtle but distinct differences in style, clothing, food and perspective between the countries. Most of the travelers we've met have been from other Latin American countries ( lots of Argentinians and Brazilians). Each country is very unique, yet all possess that Latin charm.
Traveling and being outside of your element forces you to examine and experience other ways if life, leading to a better understanding of the differences and similarities we all have. Next stop Bolivia and Argentina and we will not forget to bring our own toilet paper!!!!!
Ciao!
Solo Adventures, So Low in Patagonia
Heading Way South of the Border
Marily MacDonald
Villaricca: she is one hot, bubbly, loud and agitated volcano. Climbing up the radical face of ice and rock with an ice pick and crampons was a thrill in and of itself, let alone the interior view of an active volcano. The air became smoky and gaseous as red-hot chunks of lava burst from the earth. Due to the pull of the full moon she was more volatile then usual; you could say it was her time of the month. Every time the magma would spit out I'd ponder where to go if she really got mad. It was tough leaving the lakes district, with its volcanic landscape, countless lakes and ominous Andean peaks looming above. I truly appreciated Mother Nature's creativity.
It is one big Steppe into the lower regions of Chile and Argentina. The two-day bus ride down a bumpy , unpaved, desolate road leading me to the lower ends of the earth was worth every nauseating second. With its copious amount of outdoor pursuits, Patagonia is gaining popularity, especially as the accessibility improves. Arriving in El Chalten was a huge relief. Though a young (25 yrs old), unorganized, unpaved township it is quickly becoming base camp for many climbing enthusiasts, with Mt. Fitz Roy as the endeavor of choice. With its dramatic sloping faces that burst out of milky blue waters, the views were worth the mere seven-hour hike! I can see why some refer to it as "PataGucci;" it really is the designer section of Mother Nature's closet!
However, the amazing recreational opportunities do not overshadow the equally impressive glacial activity that studs the area. Puerto Moreno glacier is one of the most active in the area, moving almost a meter a day. The skyscraper-sized bits of ice that break off regularly are a sight to hear; the booming sound of ice crashing into the water is shattering. Waiting and watching for the ice to "calve" quickly consumed four hours of a day. After each crash gigantic waves push the chunks of ice out into the middle of the lake, creating a nautical navigator's nightmare. The size and power of the glacier Puerto Moreno is epic. Mother Nature sure outdoes herself down here.
Having done all this on my own, I am grateful to share my stories with you and the community. Since I have now been traveling alone for a month (Lisa had prior commitments, but we will reconvene in Hong Kong) I have had to step even farther out of my comfort zone. Having become more observant and aware, I have taken all this in with a new independent view. Though I feel as if I have lost my voice, (Lisa was the one fluent in Spanish!) I have somehow managed with the frequent use of "Spanglish" to survive all these adventures. I hope the luck continues in Buenos Aires where I may have to give the Tango a go!
Marily MacDonald
Villaricca: she is one hot, bubbly, loud and agitated volcano. Climbing up the radical face of ice and rock with an ice pick and crampons was a thrill in and of itself, let alone the interior view of an active volcano. The air became smoky and gaseous as red-hot chunks of lava burst from the earth. Due to the pull of the full moon she was more volatile then usual; you could say it was her time of the month. Every time the magma would spit out I'd ponder where to go if she really got mad. It was tough leaving the lakes district, with its volcanic landscape, countless lakes and ominous Andean peaks looming above. I truly appreciated Mother Nature's creativity.
It is one big Steppe into the lower regions of Chile and Argentina. The two-day bus ride down a bumpy , unpaved, desolate road leading me to the lower ends of the earth was worth every nauseating second. With its copious amount of outdoor pursuits, Patagonia is gaining popularity, especially as the accessibility improves. Arriving in El Chalten was a huge relief. Though a young (25 yrs old), unorganized, unpaved township it is quickly becoming base camp for many climbing enthusiasts, with Mt. Fitz Roy as the endeavor of choice. With its dramatic sloping faces that burst out of milky blue waters, the views were worth the mere seven-hour hike! I can see why some refer to it as "PataGucci;" it really is the designer section of Mother Nature's closet!
However, the amazing recreational opportunities do not overshadow the equally impressive glacial activity that studs the area. Puerto Moreno glacier is one of the most active in the area, moving almost a meter a day. The skyscraper-sized bits of ice that break off regularly are a sight to hear; the booming sound of ice crashing into the water is shattering. Waiting and watching for the ice to "calve" quickly consumed four hours of a day. After each crash gigantic waves push the chunks of ice out into the middle of the lake, creating a nautical navigator's nightmare. The size and power of the glacier Puerto Moreno is epic. Mother Nature sure outdoes herself down here.
Having done all this on my own, I am grateful to share my stories with you and the community. Since I have now been traveling alone for a month (Lisa had prior commitments, but we will reconvene in Hong Kong) I have had to step even farther out of my comfort zone. Having become more observant and aware, I have taken all this in with a new independent view. Though I feel as if I have lost my voice, (Lisa was the one fluent in Spanish!) I have somehow managed with the frequent use of "Spanglish" to survive all these adventures. I hope the luck continues in Buenos Aires where I may have to give the Tango a go!
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